THERE BUT FOR THE GRACE OF .....



This is what you see as you ascend the Rio Dulce after checking in at Livingston, Guatemala on the Bay of Honduras.  Right around the bend you enter the Canyon with trees clinging to sheer rocks rising on each side.  Beauty surrounds as you motor on to adventures yet to be.  

This is what the new owners of Sunday's Child dreamed of as they began their maritime life anchored in Monkey Bay, an idyllic spot upriver where Howler monkeys serenade the evening as contented boaters salute exotic scenery in this peaceful setting. 
                    

                           RIO DULCE GUATEMALA

           SAILING UPRIVER TO MARINA COUNTRY

Those of you familiar with John's Musings know that I spent several years on the Rio Dulce in Guatemala.  While there I wrote several articles on what life is like as a cruiser in this dichotomy.  Interestingly one of the chapters in TILLER TALES is called RIO DULCE DICHOTOMY.  Take a look at the excerpts found elsewhere on this site.

One of the articles I wrote there that saw publication was called MUERTE EN EL RIO DULCE (Murder on the Rio Dulce) which chronicled the execution of the night watchman at Suzanna Laguna, a marina I stayed in off and on over the years.





                    RIO DULCE MARINA COUNTRY

Suzanna Laguna is located just below the 6 indicating the Rio Dulce Bridge, behind the spoil island on the right.  Lago Izabal, a twenty-odd mile long lake  can be seen opening to the bottom of the picture.  The isolated white square to the upper right on the north shore of the river denotes Mario's Marina, Monkey Bay Marina is on the opposite shore and Monkey Bay is next to it.  This is where Sunday's Child was anchored last Saturday night, in sight of the  marina and some houses owned by privileged Guatemalans, Los Ricos, and many Guatemalans not so privileged seeking a living, some in any way they can.


                        

                   OVERVIEW OF THE RIO DULCE

Two incidents occurred almost within hours of each other.  The first in Monkey Bay indicated by the X on the lower left.


                         

                                SUNDAY'S CHILD

                              IN HAPPIER TIMES

I got an e-mail from a cruiser friend I met in Mexico who included an AP article describing a boarding in Lago Izabal describing the killing of a man anchored on the lake and critical wounding of his wife. 

I spent a week on this lake in a convoy of five boats in 2003.  We were very careful in our travels and kept watch over each other as even then there were incidents of violence. 

I e-mailed another friend who presently lives on the Rio Dulce, a mile or two downriver from Monkey Bay asking what happened.  Here's what he wrote.

 
Good Morning John,

The AP supposedly interviewed Nancy, but apparently added some flourish to their story.

OK the straight scoop.  Apparently around 9:30PM on the 9th, Dan and Nancy of Sunday's Child were at anchor in Monkey Bay, not too far from Luvi's new Marina.  They were in the cockpit enjoying dinner and drinks and 4 men/boys started climbing onto the boat.  Dan told them to get off and one of them grabbed Nancy and put a knife to her throat and the others shoved Dan below, demanding their dollars (which they didn't have any).  Dan apparently grabbed his attackers knife hand and the other one stabbed him repeatedly in the chest/abdomen area and the one behind him with the machete, stabbed him clear through.  Nancy was stabbed in the upper shoulder, area and left for dead and the guys left.  She called on 68 for help and Monkey Bay John heard it and responded, Marcos from Marios heard it and called Luvi and he responded and Marcos told English Frank and he responded and they all tried to get Jungle Medic, the firefighters or anyone else and received no response, so Frank and a nurse from a boat at Monkey Bay drove her to the hospital in Morales.  Apparently it did clip the lung, but all is well now....

Hope that sort of tells you the story.  Luvi told me the police have good intel, but want to make sure before the cuffs go on.  The only feeling I get from my fellow gringos, is anger, they don't want the police involved they just want the suspects killed.  BUT nobody was hacked..... The above info came from English Frank directly and Luvi directly, both were on the scene.  And you know I'm armed...

  Jim and the very lovely Ruth from the Rio Dulce River, Guatemala.

Here's another view from a cruiser's web site on the river.  I got the pic of Sunday's Child and the map showing sites of the attacks from this article.

                               Deadly Attack on Cruisers  

                         The News - Latest News

                                At approximately 10 p.m. on Saturday night, 4
                                men with machetes boarded an anchored vessel,
                                with apparent intent to rob.  When they were met
                                with resistance, it became a cruisers biggest
                                nightmare.

                                Dan and Nancy Dryden had bought SUNDAY'S CHILD
                                several months ago, and were looking forward to
                                years of pleasant sailing experiences.  They
                                were anchored off the small cove near Monkey Bay
                                Marina and Lubi's house when the incident
                                occurred.  Details are still somewhat sketchy,
                                but in resisting the robbers, Dan was killed and
                                Nancy, although seriously wounded, was able to
                                use the VHF radio to summon help.

                                The stations and boaters that still had their
                                radios on at that hour came to assist, and Nancy
                                was transported to a private hospital in
                                Morales, reportedly with a punctured lung. 

                                The vessel has been secured, and all officials,
                                including the U.S. Embassy, are aware of the
                                attack.  If anyone has information that may be
                                pertinent to this incident, please make contact
                                through the Chisme Vindicator at
                                photoeditor@riodulcechisme.com This e-mail
                                address is being protected from spam bots, you
                                need JavaScript enabled to view it . 

                                The community is mourning Dan's senseless death,
                                and understandably, is in shock that this could
                                happen to one of us.  Family members are en
                                route from the states, and friends here are
                                doing what they can to help Nancy until they
                                arrive.

                                Latest update:  (edited) "4 men with machetes
                                boarded an anchored vessel" Nancy has undergone
                                surgery, and is doing well, expected to have no
                                complications. She stated that she could
                                identify the attackers in a line up.

                                Rick at Ram Marine has offered to put the boat
                                on the hard at no charge, for as long as she
                                needs. 

                                 Update: 

                                The Vice-President of Guatemala, Rafael
                                Espado, has taken an personal interest in this
                                incident. He phoned the hospital today, reported
                                Dr. Rolando, and would like to meet with Nancy
                                Dryden. As he is unable to travel here at this
                                time, after several proposals on how the
                                logistics would be worked out, it was agreed
                                that the family members would be picked up upon
                                arrival in Guatemala City Monday night, and
                                flown to their mother at the hospital in Morales
                                on Tuesday morning.

                                The Inguat people are invaluable in
                                coordinating, and will be assisting in the
                                movement of Dan's body from the funeral home in
                                Fronteras to join the family for a flight back
                                to the city, where Nancy will enter a private
                                hospital for another day or two. It was
                                important to Nancy for the children to see their
                                dad before he was cremated. Thanks to the Vice
                                President, this will happen. Dan will be
                                cremated, and the family will be here with Nancy
                                for an undisclosed period of time.

                                We are all sending best wishes to Nancy, who is
                                recovering very well, according to the doctors.
                                She appreciates all that is being done for her
                                and is very grateful to the boaters that
                                assisted, as well as all the Guatemalans who
                                have shown how much they, too, care. 
                                           
                           Another boat boarding last night

                  Three boats anchored between Livingston and Texan Bay were
                  coming to Texan Bay today. We made radio contact with one of
                  the boats, Mima, owned by Mark and Sue with their two young
                  children last night after dark. They said they were about two
                  miles from Texan Bay and would arrive here sometime this
                  morning. During the night, five Guatemalan men boarded one of
                  the three boats with machete's and one of them had a gun. One
                  of the boats attempted to call Mima on channel 68 on the VHF
                  radio to warn them of the danger. Mima was not boarded. They
                  made radio contact with a cruiser at Texan Bay who offered
                  assistance if needed. They also contacted Raul in Livingston.
                  The men demanded US money. No one was hurt and Mima was not
                  boarded. We have no other details at this time. However, all
                  three boats were badly shaken by this event and no longer plan
                  to anchor in the river. We are all happy that they were not
                  hurt by the robbers and they are safe today.

                  Just thought you might want to make mention of this on your
                  site. 

                  Thanks,
                  Dayna McMullen
                  sv SeFue at Texan Bay

                  These guys wanted Dollars........could it be the same ones who
                  boarded Sunday's Child???
                  _________________
                   Don Gato 

            Super Senior River Rat

                  Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:12 am    Post subject: 

                  ....if it is the same gang, very logical that they relocate
                  downriver, to get those dollars from the boats before they
                  change them into quetzales.

                  they sure aren't looking for quetzales, are they?
                  _________________
                  ...so sayeth the crone


Well there you have it.  Been there, done that, not yet been killed.

I've been contemplating another trip to the Rio.  Not sure yet if I will.  There are murders seemingly every week here in Cape Coral and southwest Florida but here it seems more isolated.  We live in scary times.

I want to see the Rio Dulce Canyon at least two more times.

I'll let you know what happens.  Keep in touch.

          

   

                  FRANNIE THE WATCHFLAMINGO

                ALWAYS WATCHING OUT FOR YOU



                        TAKE CARE, 

                               JB

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